How many tiles do I order?
We would normally recommend ordering around 5-10% extra, this allows
for cutting wastage and breakages.
Why do tile prices vary so much when I look
around?
Prices vary hugely dependent on what the tiles are made of, their
quality, how they are made and their country of origin. The better
factories have their
own laboratories to test and create amazing effects and glazes. They
tend
to invest heavily in new machinery to produce these effects which of
course is reflected in the finished price. Tiles can sometimes be hand
made or
hand painted. Quality control and transportation costs can also be a
factor - also the cheap tiles generally look cheap.
Do I get the adhesive
& grout or let the tiler sort it out?
We know
what tiles you are having, have the right products in stock &
take into
account any particularly quirky things about the tiles ordered. We can
always do you a better deal if the materials are
involved - we have more to play with. We always supply the correct
materials and they are not
expensive; for example the adhesive & grout for kitchen walls
is not normally more than £15. Our aim is to supply the right
products for your particular project, sometimes the builders aim may be
to use up what he has left from the last job.
How do I know how many tiles I need?
Don't worry, bring in your measurements in either cm/metres or
feet/inches and we will work out what you need.
What happens if I have any tiles left over?
Tiles can not be returned if ordered in for you, however
it's always a good idea to keep a few spares should you have any
alterations (new plug socket, different shower, new windows fitted etc).
Can you arrange a tiler to fit my tiles?
Yes, we have several experienced tilers whom we can arrange to tile for
you, they do not work for us but come highly recommended. They know our
tiles and materials and so you have continuity. See our Need a tiler page for more
details.
What about shade variation?
Most tiles do vary in shade and in size in some cases. The process's
used to make tiles use large amounts of heat and pressure, this causes
variations. This is what gives tiles there beauty and should be looked
at as part of what makes them look so wonderful.
What kind of adhesive and grout do I need?
We can advise on this when you come into the shop, we tend to slightly
"over specify" adhesives and grouts, that way you know they will be
fitted correctly. We can of course only supply the correct materials
based on the information you give to us. All adhesives, grouts,
primers, trims, chemicals are in stock.
What about if I can't find the tiles I am
looking for?
Just ask, we can usually source most things given a little time
How long does it take after I order my tiles
before I can collect them?
Usually no more than a week unless they are being made or painted for
you.
Checking tiles?
We check your tiles before you collect them but please check them
yourself prior to tiling. We can always sort out problems before they
are laid but afterwards is very difficult.
Fixing Guide
Most
wall tiles are ceramic and are assumed to be suitable for
fixing onto plastered walls or plasterboard. If fixing floor tiles
onto the wall make sure the walls are solid and suitable to take the
extra weight involved. Plasterboard will take 50% more weight than
plaster - once primed or "tanked" is superb to tile onto.
Preparation:
Remove old tiles, loose plaster and any emulsion paint and wall paper.
If you have trouble removing emulsion paint then score the area to be
tiled with a screwdriver to give a key.
If the walls are very uneven it might be worth considering having them
skimmed with plaster or overboarded to get a nice finish prior to tiling. Plaster
& plaster board will require priming first with a universal
bonding
agent - SBR primer
diluted 1:3 with clean water, PVA is
not suitable and should not be used.
If tiling onto existing tiles make sure they are solid, clean and dry,
then prime using a paintable mix of SBR primer and polymer modified
adhesive to give a key (1 part primer to 2 adhesive). If tiling
with glass tiles it is always recommended that you use a White or light
coloured polymer modified adhesive.
Tiling:
Before starting to tile, use 2 tiles to "hand them across the wall" to
see where they will fall for cuts and position of window sills and any
obstructions. You are looking to make sure that for whatever starting point
left to right you do not end up with very slim cuts to make.
Ideally tiling wants to be centred around your window with
equal cuts either side. Try test starting at different points until you
find a good starting point left to right on each wall and mark the wall
where you will start. Do the same for height, make sure that if your
floor is not level that you start with a large cut. If tiling a
bathroom it looks nice to start with a full tile off the bath provided it falls right round the room of course.
Although most adhesives grip tiles very well it can help to nail a wooden batten to
the wall and tile up from that. Tile the walls spreading the adhesive
on the wall with a notched trowel, spacing the tiles with the
appropriate sized spacers. Some modern tiles look better with a tighter
joint. Some need to a wide joint especially if you have to accommodate
the variation in size some tiles have from tile to tile.
Work
cleanly, cleaning off excess adhesive and keeping the joints between
tiles free of adhesive as you go. Most wall tiles will cut with a hand
operated bar cutter but electric water cooled cutters can be hired at a
daily rate. When all walls are tiled and dry mix the grout to a thick
consistency (slightly thicker than sand & cement mortar) and
grout
using a squeegee or grout float, pushing the grout into the joints.
When grouted clean off grout from the tiles face before it dries and
using a sponge smooth the grout evenly along the joints. In room temperatures grout should not be
left more than half an hour before cleaning off otherwise
the grout will be difficult to remove. In cold rooms the time may be
extended. Keep cleaning
off the grout with a well wrung out sponge using clean water until only a slight powder
residue is left on the tile faces. Once dry polish the face
of the tiles clean using a soft cloth. If fixing tiles that are larger than 25x25cm it is always
advisable to use a cement based adhesive rather than a ready mixed
bucketed adhesive (as cement based adhesives dry by chemical reaction
not by relying on air to dry) If grouting with chrome tiles or delicate
materials be careful not to scratch the tiles with the grout.
Most man made floor tiles are now made of porcelain so for
this guide we will assume the tiles are porcelain, if they are ceramic
it will not make any difference for the purpose of this guide.
Preparation:
Concrete floors need to be swept clean first and any loose concrete
removed. If there are high patches these will need chopping down to the
same level as the rest of the floor using a hammer and bolster chisel,
any holes or large low points can be filled with the adhesive the day
before, providing the holes are not more than 2" deep and not too wide.
If the holes are large or deep, fill them with a mixture of sand and
cement. We supply self levelling compound that will level from
3-50mm. If the floor to be tiled is freshly laid concrete the
general rule of thumb is to allow at least a week per inch depth of
concrete laid; if your floor is 4" thick then allow at least 4 weeks
for it to dry before tiling. Prime the concrete with SBR primer diluted
1:3 with clean water - do not use PVA.
Existing
tiled floors need to be swept clean of loose dust, mopped clean and
allowed to dry. It is advisable to prime the floor with a universal
bonding agent mixed with adhesive powder to make a slurry
coat (2 parts adhesive + 1 part neat SBR primer) and
paint/trowel this on first and allow to dry. Any loose tiles
will
need
taking up and the hole left behind filled with adhesive the day before
fixing.
Tiling:
Before mixing up any adhesive always loose lay a large area of tiles to
familiarise yourself with the tiles, the grout joint width and the
pattern you are laying them in. Shaded tiles are best mixed as you lay
them out to give a good blend across the floor. Make sure that your
tiles fit across the room nicely without very tiny cuts at one side and
perpendicular to the main walls or walkway into the room. Many tiles
vary in size between each other so it is normal to have to use a larger
grout joint or "wangle" the joints to make the floor look right. If you
find any problems with the tiles contact us straight away before
attempting to lay any tiles. Once the tiles are fixed down it is
impossible to exchange any that you may be unhappy with. We recommend
you check the tiles as soon as you get them home, preferably several
days before the day you intend to tile.
Use a good quality polymer modified floor adhesive, sometimes
referred to as a single part flexible adhesive, with 2 good clean
buckets the relevant notched trowel and a sponge to clean excess
adhesive off the tile faces. Mix the adhesive with water as per the
manufacturers instructions, spread an area of about a square metre at a
time onto the floor with the trowel leaving a "combed bed" of adhesive
over the entire area where the tiles are to be fixed. Place the tiles
down and apply firm pressure to them to ensure that they are correctly
bedded into the adhesive. It is important to strive for 100% coverage
of adhesive under the tiles so as to not leave voids where there is no
support. Continue to lay the tiles and space them accordingly. Tilers
will often do the cuts before mixing the adhesive at the "loose lay"
stage so they can continue laying the tiles uninterrupted, some people
prefer to cut the tiles as they go along. Clean with fresh water and a
sponge the tile surface as you go along, make sure the grout joints do
not have adhesive in them near to the surface of the joint otherwise
the adhesive can show through the grout once finished. Work as cleanly
as you can keeping your tools clean too. Once the tiles have set
(usually after around 3 hours) the floor can accept light foot traffic.
The next day they will be set firm.
Most man made floor tiles are now made of porcelain so for
this guide we will assume the tiles are porcelain, if they are ceramic
it will not make any difference for the purpose of this guide. Whatever
way you achieve it the best floor is a solid & rigid floor when
tiling. We prefer to make floors as stiff as possible then use a
flexible adhesive & grout as well.
Preparation:
The timber floor needs to be swept clean first and any loose pieces
removed. The floor should then be screwed down firmly using brass
screws, any really bad boards need to be replaced and noggins put
between joists to provide extra strengthening if required. The idea is
to make the floor rigid and provide a smooth surface in preparation to
tile.
Exterior
grade (or marine) plywood - 15mm thick was always used for many years
as it is rigid, smooth and
water resistant, it is available in 8ft x 4ft sheets. The major problem
with plywood is being too thick and handling it in big sheet form. If you
use this it needs to have the edges primed first
and
then laid onto the timber floor and screwed down every 6-12" using
brass screws
An
excellent alternative to exterior plywood is cement based backer
boards - No More Ply or Hardie Backer. These boards are rigid,
waterproof and at only 6mm thick are ideal
when you do not want to raise the floor level too much. They are
convenient as they come in a more manageable size :- 1200X600mm
& 1500x900mm and as
mentioned just
6mm
thick. These are quickly laid using a polyeurethane
glue and just 12 screws per sheet. These should be laid at right angles
to the way the existing boards go and staggered in a brickbond fashion
for extra strength. Any tiny gaps should be filled using the adhesive
provided. Once laid these are primed with SBR primer and then
tiled using a polymer modified cement based floor tile adhesive and
with an additive in with the grout or the flexible grout we stock.
These boards are always in stock
and available from only £10.00 per sheet including VAT. Typically 1 tube
of glue is required for 3 -4 sheets of board, the screws are self
starting and 25mm long so as not to go into any pipes under your floor
boards.
Tiling:
Once your floor is primed and ready loose lay an area of tiles to
familiarise yourself with the tiles, the grout joint width and the
pattern you are laying them in. Tiles do vary in size and sometimes you
need to be prepared to adjust the grout widths to accomodate this -
this is normal. Very large tiles can slightly bow. Shaded tiles are
best mixed to give a good blend across the floor.
Make sure that your tiles fit across the room nicely without very tiny
cuts at one side and perpendicular to the main walls or walkway into
the room.
If you do find any problems with the tiles contact us straight
away before attempting to lay any tiles - another good reason for loose
laying first. Once the tiles are fixed down it is impossible to
exchange any that you may be unhappy with. We recommend you check the
tiles as soon as you get them home, preferably several days before the
day you intend to tile.
Use
a good quality polymer modified floor adhesive, sometimes referred to
as a single part flexible adhesive. A grout admixture will also be
required to add a little flexibility to the grout if standard grouts
are used. You will need 2 or 3 good clean buckets, the
relevant
notched trowel and a sponge to clean excess adhesive off the tile
faces. Wear rubber gloves as cement based products are not kind to
your skin. Mix the adhesive as per the manufacturers
instructions
- not too much at a time, spread an area of about a square metre at a
time onto the floor with the trowel leaving a "combed bed" of adhesive
over the entire area where the tiles are to be fixed. Place the tiles
down and apply firm pressure to them to ensure that they are correctly
bedded into the adhesive. It is important to strive for 100% coverage
of adhesive under the tiles so as to not leave voids where there is no
support. Continue to lay the tiles and space them accordingly. Wipe
tiles and joints clean as you go along with clean water.
Tilers will often do the cuts before mixing the adhesive at
the "loose lay" stage so they can continue laying the tiles
uninterrupted, some people prefer to cut the tiles as they go along.
Clean with fresh water and a sponge the tile surface as you go along,
make sure the grout joints do not have adhesive in them near to the
surface of the joint otherwise the adhesive can show through the grout
once finished. Work as cleanly as you can keeping your tools clean too.
Once the tiles have set (usually after 3-4 hours) the floor can accept
light foot traffic.
Grouting:
Once
dry grout with a cement based floor tile grout with a flexible additive
added. Mix with water/additive to a thick consistency, the grout needs
to be mixed thicker than a morta mix that you would use for
bricklaying. Excessive water can encourage efflorescence in grout.
Using a grout float or squeegee force the grout into the joints taking
care to smooth off excess grout. When the joints start to dry (usually
after 20 mins or so) clean the tile surface and smooth the tops of the
joints with a damp sponge leaving the grout slightly lower than the
tiles surface. Don't leave it too long as once the grout starts to
harden it takes a lot of effort to clean off the face of the tiles.
Rinse the sponge continuously as you go with fresh
water. When cleaning do not introduce too much water into the grout - use a well wrung out sponge. Once dry polish the face
of the tiles clean using a soft cloth. Grout is very difficult to remove once set hard so take the
time to clean well while it is still easy to do. Don't empty the
grout
down the drain as grout will set even under water.
Efflorescence in grout:
Efflorescence
is something that can sometimes oocur in most cement or cement based
products. You may have seen it but not realised what it is? On newly
built houses for example you can sometimes see White crystals on the
brickwork near the mortar joints - that is effloresence. It occurs in
grout and can make grout joints appear patchy - light and darker areas.
It will go eventually but it can be annoying until it does. It is not
the fault of the grout, it is often caused by tiling onto areas that
have not fully dried out yet (the moisture dries from the back to the
front and "wicks" the salts to the surface) or when tilers have used
their grout too wet or introduced too much water during the cleaning
off stage. On some occasions it can be difficult to say what caused it.
It will go but if you want to speed it up there are things you can do.
There are efflorescence removers (we sell them) or more unconventional
methods can be used such as putting linseed oil on the joints to hide
it.
Important points:
Polished
porcelain usually requires sealing, marble and natural stones
require sealing before and after grouting as do Victorian floor tiles.
Glass requires polymer modified White adhesive and a suitable grout.
Porcelain requires polymer modified cement based adhesive & grout
too. Most wall & floor tiles now (certainly over 30x30cm) require
cement based adhesives - not ready mixed buckets, all areas to
be tiled require priming first. Anhydrite or gypsum based screeds will
need to be totally isolated with primer prior to tiling - phone us for
instructions.
Finally:
Please note this is meant as a guide only, if you are in doubt of your
ability please phone for more advice or alternatively get a
professional tiler in to do the work for you. Floors need to be
as rigid as possible before you commence tiling to ensure the tiles are
fitted properly and that your grout remains intact. Any shortcuts made in the
preparation may result in problems later.
